Wildlife Trails - Gorilla Trails Trip Report 2010

Gorilla Trails Trip Report 2010

Dear All,

Gorilla Trekking remains one of the most magical and rewarding wildlife experiences in the natural world, and one that I know is high on many of our clients' wish lists. Sadly though, all too often their ambitions, and to a degree our own, have been thwarted by the high cost of organising trips to Uganda and Rwanda, and I have to say to Africa generally. An unfortunate combination of inflexibility on the part of long established ground agents and the weak pound has conspired to push the price of such trips beyond many clients' budgets, and I felt that in order to make them more affordable we needed to re-visit Uganda and Rwanda and completely rethink the way that we put together tours here. Needless to say I was quick put my hand up to take on this challenge!

I flew to Entebbe with Marcel, a good friend who has joined me on previous road trips in Australia and India, and an ideal travel companion on what promised to be an arduous trip covering many miles on roads made tricky by the rainy season. Thankfully the bulk of the driving was to be done by our naturalist, Martin, who was to prove himself as one of the best guides I have ever encountered during my wildlife travels around the world.

Our first destination was Murchison National Park, so after picking up some provisions in town, we drove the classic road north from Kampala to Masindi, first on sealed roads and then unsealed, all the way to our accommodation for the night: a simple Banda located close to the famous Albert Nile. It had been a long drive for Martin, in challenging conditions which showed his 4-wheel driving proficiency to the full, but he still made time for an evening chat to discuss plans for the following days activities.

The next day we caught the rustic car ferry over the Nile, picked up a local guide who Martin had handpicked the previous night, and headed off into the park. Great memories from my first visit here in 2005 came flooding back as I looked out over the open grasslands, patches of Acacia Trees, and distant views of Lake Albert. As was the case in 2005, we encountered few other vehicles and initially focused our attentions on the large herds of Giraffe, Topi and Buffalo grazing on the higher ground, before slowly making our way down towards the Delta area here we were rewarded with a distant view of the amazing Shoebill Stork..... but even better was to come.

The lack of cloud cover meant we were feeling the full heat of the day by late morning, and both Martin and our guide were putting themselves in the ‘mind set’ of the resident predators, and looking for ideal rest spots for both Leopard and Lion. We stopped at countless Fig Trees to scan for Leopard resting on their enormous boughs, and peered into dense undergrowth where we hoped a pride of Lions may be taking a siesta. Our persistence was rewarded with an incredible encounter with a Lioness and three small cubs. The remains of an Oribi kill lay close by a dense thicket, inside which lay the sleeping family. Cubs of course do not rest for too long, and one in particular was very curious about our vehicle and provided us with some great photo opportunities.

We left this tranquil scene (well maybe not for the antelope!) and continued driving along the picturesque Delta circuit, with the open meadows, large trees and Lake Albert to our left. A group of birders had heard a second shoebill on the opposite side of the river and a quick scan revealed it standing at the waters edge. When you consider it is possible to camp here by the Delta with an armed park guard, and by doing so get the jump on the few tourists that arrive later, and take a night time drive, you could really enjoy a unique and thrilling wildlife safari here.

No visit to Murchison is complete without a classic boat ride to the famous Murchison Falls on one of the older double decked boats. This is a very atmospheric way of viewing the wildlife found along the river banks, including huge numbers of Hippo’s, several large Crocs, herds of Elephant, Antelope and many interesting bird species such as saddle-billed storks, pied kingfishers and the omnipresent African Fishing Eagle. What few people attempt, is to get off the boat as it turns around to head back, and hike up to the ‘Top of the Falls’. There is a clearly marked trail which involves only a moderate climb and even including several stops to see the falls from a much closer distance, only takes 1-2 hours to complete. The reward is incredible views of the two separate cataracts, and for us the opportunity to camp with our own equipment high above the falls, being lulled to sleep by the sounds of the thundering waters.

The next day we had the opportunity to take an afternoon drive focussing on trying to see Leopard and Elephant. As is the case for many people on safari in Africa, the charismatic ‘tree loving’ feline escaped us, but we did see several herds of Elephant, including a few large Tuskers, and nearly missed the last ferry back to our accommodation due to our regular stops for photography and birding.

Our next destination in Uganda was new to me: Semliki Valley where there is a national park and a wildlife reserve to visit. The reserve is set-up for vehicle safaris where you have the chance to see Ugandan Kob, Reedbuck, Elephant and possibly Leopard, and is recovering from heavy poaching in the 1980’s so you cannot get as close to the wildlife as in Murchison or Queen Elizabeth. Semliki National Park is located within the Albertine Rift Valley and is there to protect primates and rare bird populations that live in a continuous forest tract between the Congo and Uganda, as well as the famous hot springs which have been used by the local people for hundreds of years as a place of spiritual significance. The walk to the springs is relatively easy and is very productive in terms of both birds and primates: we saw black-and-white colobus, grey-cheeked mangabey and red-tailed monkey.

From Semliki we retraced our route via a magnificent mountain road to Fort Portal, before driving onwards to Kibale. This area is fascinating with so many mountains and crater lakes pock marking the land. Some of this land is now home to spectacular wooden guest lodges that not only give you a luxurious bed for the night, but also some absolutely stunning views of the lakes and snow capped Ruwenzori Mountains nearby.

The following day we drove onto Kyambura Gorge, close to Queen Elizabeth National Park. Having previously been chimp trekking in Kibale Forest, I was keen to look at an alternative just a few hours south by road. Back in 2005 I had briefly visited the small park office located a mere 100 yards from the top of this steep sided forested gorge, and it had been a privilege just to take in the magnificence of this view point from a raised wooden platform, and imagine the thrill of trekking in the untouched forest far below. This time we were not just here to take in the views, and as we started our steep descent into the warm humid forest I felt the familiar tingle of anticipation that you always enjoy when visiting a new wildlife location.

It is fair to say that walking through Kyambura Gorge might not be for everyone – within 10 minutes we had crossed a river twice by walking across a large fallen log, trying not to be distracted by the ebullient Hippo’s frolicking in the water a mere 100 yards downstream. The forest was awe inspiring and since we were the only two participants in the afternoon trek we were able to fully enjoy the interpretation provided by our excellent local guide. He soon spotted evidence of chimps feeding on a green fruit known for its alcohol content. They had eaten very recently and our guide informed us that they can become pretty rowdy in such circumstances, and the extra noise they then produce makes the tracking easier, at least until they pass out! However, despite good sightings of Red Tailed Monkeys and Black and White Colobus, we were yet to hear the evocative calls of Chimpanzees and continued our trekking deeper into the forest.

I wish I could have captured a picture of the face of our guide when he heard the first series of chimp calls. Here is a guy who has been leading chimp treks several times a week for many years, but the excitement on his face when the ‘hooting’ started was a joy to behold. He then switched immediately to ‘GPS mode’; using the location of the calls and the lay of the forest to pick the most suitable route to the group. We approached with speed and stealth (well relatively!) and his frantic arm signals indicated the group was just a short distance ahead. I glimpsed one of the chimps off to the right of the main group and took the decision to branch off our main path and try to take pictures.

This proved a very lucky decision as the adult chimps only remained in view for a few seconds before crossing the river and heading out of sight into the dense jungle. However I had focused on a sub-adult and he or she appeared more curious about the three human interlopers, and stopped mid-way across the river on a fallen log to look back at us. This was my opportunity to fire off a few quick shots before this individual headed off to catch up with the main group. A short but exhilarating meeting with the chimps was over and we continued our walk through the forest with huge smiles on all our faces.

From the primeval gorge we walked back to our vehicle and headed back into the main Queen Elizabeth National Park, switching our attention to a track called ‘Leopard Loop’ as we made our way to the Mweya Peninsula, and our campsite for the night. We were in the right area at the right time of day but it was still a wonderful surprise to come across a stationary vehicle at the side of the road, with all its occupants' cameras and binocs focused on a large spotted cat laid down on a nearby track. The only thing that appeared to bother the calm countenance of this beautiful male leopard was the aggressive antics of black Drongos upset with his chosen resting spot. His occasional snarls and yawns made for some wonderful viewing, although the fading light and his apparent reluctance to commence an early evening hunting mission left some of us wishing for more. We knew we had to make a move to head out of the park to set up camp for the night, so we tore ourselves away and drove on to the Mweya campsite. Setting up camp was a quick affair and after a celebratory shower and beer we enjoyed a great evening meal under the stars at a nearby outdoor restaurant. The exhilaration and joy in our hearts and minds was further enhanced by the sound of nearby roaring Lions as we slept under canvas near the Kazinga Channel; a perfect day!

The next morning we drove to Bwindi via a wonderful road that takes you through Ishasha, a southern section of Queen Elizabeth famous for tree-climbing lions. Many of our guests over the years have stayed at a luxury camp here and like me enjoyed some wonderful sightings of both male and female lions enjoying the cool shade of the giant fig trees. On this occasion we did not have time to overnight here but we scanned the trees either side of the road in the hope of seeing a sleepy lion, but they remained concealed.

I was personally delighted to re-visit the small community of Buhoma, which is the gateway for Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. My memories from 2005 were of a thriving local community that had embraced tourism and developed a wide range of connected activities and charity projects to enhance the impoverished lives of local people. On this occasion I would not be Gorilla Trekking from Buhoma, but actually setting off on a long distance walk to Nkuringo, which was another example of a small local tourist venture benefiting local people in SW Uganda.

Having already met our walking guide the previous night, we were organised and ready to set off early that morning. The first part of our walk would take us along the famous ‘Waterfall Trail’ which is one of the most famous birding trails in Uganda, and just one of the many interesting walks that can be done out of Buhoma. These walks are designed to suit all abilities and you find the wider forest trails not only easy to walk but also excellent for birds and mammals who frequently cross the trail.

However, that morning we very nearly encountered an animal we would not have expected to see there: an aggressive lone male Silverback. We met an agitated park guard who while walking down from his accommodation to join a Gorilla Trekking group had been charged by this Silverback just 5 minutes before our arrival! He is well known in Buhoma and since leaving one of the Gorilla groups he had been hanging around a few of the lodges that are located inside the park. As with most animals a lot of his aggression is posturing, but I imagine a full grown Silverback charging at you and ripping branches off trees is quite a sight, though I am not sure I would have had the intestinal fortitude to reach for my camera!

Although we were travelling in the rainy season, we had been very lucky so far with most of the rain coming during the night, after a gradual build up of heat during the day. However today the heavens opened and our waterproof gear was seriously put to the test. We stopped in a UWA shelter for our lunch before starting the descent to the Kashasha River. From here we were faced with a gradual ascent (steep in places) taking us out of the forested valley and onto the ridge that would eventually lead us to the small community of Nkuringo.
The following morning the bright sunshine on our tent woke us early, and as I staggered bleary eyed down the lane from Nkuringo Camp site with my camera, I was met with the most astonishing panorama of the Virunga Volcanoes. I can honestly say it is worth visiting Nkuringo for these views alone, even if you are not intending to trek the Gorilla group here. Martin had woken during the night and seen Nyamuragira, the active Volcano in Congo, glowing red in the clear night sky. He tried to call me but my cheap Nokia mobile had given up the ghost the previous day due to the incessant rain.

Marcel and I both had permits for Gorilla trekking that day and joined 4 other people staying at Nkuringo on the walk down to the park office. Well actually we were lazy and drove down so there was an extra vehicle available for transfers. Some guide books describe trekking the Nukuringo group as only for fit people, but I would not agree with this assessment. Admittedly you do have to negotiate the steep Nteko ridge to reach the gorilla group, but since they are normally foraging outside of the primary forest, you reach them fairly quickly (it took us about 40 minutes), and then you have that ‘magical hour’ before you need to worry about the steep walk out.

I was really enjoying the walk down and this was further enhanced by the fact that two Gorillas were clearly visible up a tree when we were only half-way down the slope. Seeing these individuals and further members of the family in the valley below as we trekked down took our personal excitement levels to new heights and we were quick to drop our rucksacks and move forward with the guides to see the Gorillas at close quarters.

By now I had realised that one of my camera lenses was suffering badly from condensation, so I only had my wide angle lens available. Although this was a little disappointing you do get close enough to get good shots with any type of camera, and this helped me take my eye away from the view finder and just enjoy the experience with my own eyes. By now the weather had turned bright and sunny and we found the main family group consisting of the silverback, several females and four baby gorillas resting in a giant ‘nest’ just a short distance from where we had seen the first gorillas.

This was to be the focal point for the next 40-50 minutes, with the antics of the playful youngsters providing the highlight of this truly special wildlife encounter.

As in the great David Attenborough film sequence, you feel this strong urge to look deep into their thoughtful brown eyes, whilst at the same time being wary of maintaining eye contact too long. Every time the youngsters got too close to us, the silverback would bristle and grow anxious, but as soon as they retreated to a 'safe' distance he quickly relaxed and continued to enjoy the company of his attentive females. This was a family completely relaxed and tuned into each others playful nature, and it was a privilege to spend an intimate hour in their company.

We had planned the tour so as to build up our fitness levels incrementally on a daily basis, as we intended to climb one of the Virunga Volcanoes. From the Ugandan side there are three possible options for fit trekkers looking for a full day climb: Muhavura (4127m), Sabinyo (3669m) and the smallest, Gahinga (3475m). Our choice was the wonderfully named Sabinyo, which in the local language translates as ‘Old Man’s Teeth’, but first we need to reach our base camp at Mgahinga National Park.

There are many different options that can be built into the walking tour we were undertaking, but surely the most beautiful is the walk to Lake Mutanda and then a paddle in a wooden dug-out to its southern end. After a short car transfer you walk through picturesque villages and terraced fields to enjoy spectacular views down towards Lake Mutanda and the magnificent Virunga’s that flank its eastern shore. For us it was even more thrilling as the clear weather allows us wonderful views of the jagged 3 peaks of Sabinyo, the Volcano we hoped to summit the following day.

We continued to enjoy our walk south from Lake Mutanda to Kisoro, the border town between Uganda and Rwanda, and a location many of our clients pass through on their way to Gorilla Trekking in the Parc De Volcans. It is also possible to go Gorilla Trekking in Mgahinga but it is less well known due to the fact that this group regularly crosses over to Rwanda, so their presence on the Ugandan side cannot be relied upon.

However I expect Mgahinga to attract many more visitors in the future due to the investment here by many NGO’s which has resulted in a wide range of new activities, unique accommodation options, and improved infrastructure to aid tourism. From a base here you can track Gorillas and Golden Monkey, climb one of the three volcanoes on the Ugandan side, and learn the skills of the Batwa Pygmies as you walk with them through their ancestral forests.

landscape2

The following day we met our specialist walking guide and headed to the park headquarters to pay our $30 fee for the climb. The weather was not as clear as the previous day, but we hoped the cloud would disperse by the time we reached the top. Climbing a volcano is not on everyone’s ‘must do’ list and like us you are unlikely to encounter any other people on the hike. This is not Kilimanjaro!

Mgahinga is itself 2000m above sea level so we only had another 1700m to ascend. As a biologist and lover of diverse wildlife habitats it is always interesting to walk in that zone between 1500 and 4000 metres as you experience a wonderful change of forest and vegetation as your altitude increases. The first part of the trek passed through a mixture of Afro Montane forest and agricultural land. A small green sign marked the start of the bamboo forest and our trail cut right through the middle of it. Here the walk changed from flat to steep almost instantly and we first encountered the rather rickety looking wooden ladders used to cross gaps or swampy sections of the trail. This was also the area where we started to see a good number of the incredible Rwenzori Turaco. The plumage of this Albertine Rift species is simply magnificent and a great sighting for any wildlife fan.

One of the challenges of Sabinyo is the two peaks (teeth) you must ascend and descend to get to the final climb for the summit. Energy wise both Marcel and I felt fine, as we had a few miles in our legs from the 2 day Nkuringo walking safari and the Gorilla Trekking, but I in particular found the wooden well spaced out ladders a challenge when descending. That made the final climb and summit even more rewarding and although mist obscured the views at the very top, we had enjoyed some good ones en route, including the chance to see species such as Giant Lobelia and Giant Ferns, which are particularly associated with Afro-alpine moorland. It had taken 5 hours for us to ascend, but with a good lunch eaten and a feeling of exhilaration we walked/jogged back down and were back at the headquarters in less than 3 hours.

Always on recce trips there is compromise and one of the hardest decisions is what activities to include and what to leave out. I knew that Mgahinga was a great location to trek and view the Golden Monkey, with the population of this splendid primate here being much higher than in Rwanda, and the cost to trek them a little cheaper. However during the many months of reading and researching I do before putting together a trip, I had come across an activity in Mgahinga called the Batwa Trail. As some of you may know, the Batwa are a race of pygmies who have lost access to their ancestral forest and are struggling to adapt to live in settled communities. They are often belittled and regarded as inferior to the cultivators which dominate this region, called the Bahutu. By the time Bwindi National Park was gazetted in the early 1990’s, very little of the great forest in SW Uganda was left, and the small section that remained was swallowed up by the National Park. Part of this process involved the ejection of the Batwa from their home.

The Batwa's story is not new to Wildlife Trails or our clients, as it is echoed all over the world, particularly in India where through our community projects we seek to provide some sort of small redress in similar circumstances. The Batwa Trail is such a venture and I have to say a marked improvement on the rather intrusive and tawdry tourist initiatives set up in Batwa communities elsewhere in Uganda.

The day after climbing the Volcano we had out hiking boots on again to walk from the park headquarters to the start point of the Batwa Trail. We were provided with an excellent local guide (one of the few to speak the Batwa language), as well as two Batwa elders. It was apparent immediately that this ‘walk in the forest’ with the human masters of it, was to be on their terms and even before we set off they gave us a passionate account of their history and their perilous status in modern Uganda.

However, for me the highlight was walking with these light-footed human dynamos. A big part of the walk (which is normally undertaken with 3 Batwa) is the physical interpretation of their lifestyle within the forest, which involved hunting, foraging and worship of the forest spirits. The respect they held for the animals shone through and when we visited one of their forest shelters, they took us to the small ‘temple’ at the back of the dwelling where they would give thanks to the spirits by offering food at the alter. If they ever felt they had upset the gods they would move their temporary camp immediately to another area, as always happened when a member of their community died.

About two thirds of the way through the walk you suddenly arrive at the impressive Garama Cave which at one time had been home to the Batwa King and all of his loyal followers. We entered the large main chamber carefully due to the low ceiling and were then were told to switch off our lights. Absolute darkness and silence ensued, before the slow chants of a female and male Batwa choir struck up. The effect was spine tingling and quite emotional, as the sheer beauty of their voices penetrated the darkness of the cave and lit up our hearts and minds.

With this personal joy was a small nagging voice of lament, struggling to understand why people who have so much to teach us about living in harmony with nature have been cast aside by the modern world. I believe such carelessness and disregard has cost us dear.

It is only a short journey from Mgahinga to the Rwandan border near Kisoro, and within two hours we had reached the crossing and completed all of the required paperwork for both ourselves and the vehicle. Since I would not be trekking Gorillas in Rwanda on this occasion, I spent a relatively short time here, checking out a whole range of new hotels in both Ruhengeri (gateway town for Gorilla Trekking) and closer to the park headquarters for easy access to the Parc Des Volcans National Park.

Over the years many of our clients have visited both the Parc Des Volcans and Nyungwe National Park and therefore the focus has always been primates and birds. However Rwanda does have a Savannah National Park called Akagera, and on my return to Rwanda I was keen to add this to the list of possible locations for our clients. After all, variety is what our clients have come to expect from Wildlife Trails.

Like several of Uganda’s national parks, Akagera is very much a park in recovery and it will take time and careful management before apex predators like Lion and Leopard (good sightings this month including a female with 3 cubs according to the monthly newsletter we receive!) return in any great number. However on our morning and afternoon game drives we were pleasantly surprised at the amount of wildlife we encountered, and also the contrasting landscapes we passed through on our very long game drive. The park authorities are working with a South African partner to help manage the park more effectively and also provide expertise with regards the re-introduction of key species and protection of the park boundaries.

The only accommodation inside the park is the mid-range Akagera Game Lodge which provides a perfectly comfortable base for exploring this little visited park. It has a magnificent location perched high on a hill overlooking the largest lake inside the park: Lake Ihema. We started our morning game drive as soon as we exited the hotels gates and almost immediately saw a small group of Giraffe. We then descended to the lake and enjoyed some great sightings of Hippo and a few very large crocs. Akagera is known as a top birding spot and we were lucky to see a few specialities including Red Faced Barbet.

bison

We then left the lakes to head into the mountains, having narrowly missed out on seeing Elephants heading down to the water. Driving was tricky due to much needed heavy rains having suddenly arrived, but we were rewarded with a lot of game including Zebra, Impala, Topi, Water Buck, Bush Buck and Buffalo (large herds). The scenery changes from beautifully sparsely wooded valleys to rising hills, and it was possible to see a long way into the park for game. A couple of days in Akagera showcased its potential and maybe if the current management can be supported by the government in the same way as the Gorillas are, we will see this park return to its glory days.

It is a shorter drive to cross back into Uganda at the Bukoba and this also was very easy border crossing, although it is necessary to pay $50 to re-enter the country. From here we had a very pleasant drive SW to Kabale, where we picked up a few provisions before taking the scenic unsealed road to Lake Buyonyi. Uganda does not have the more obvious ‘beach resorts’ of Kenya and Tanzania, but my research shows that due to its bilharzia free waters, private island resorts and laid back ambiance, Lake Buyonyi is starting to fill that gap.

Our first night was to be spent at a small scale lodge situated on its own island about a 40 minute boat ride from the jetty at Rutinda. We were now accustomed to the wetter climate experienced in SW Uganda during October, and the deluge that started just before the boat transfer only added to the atmosphere of the crossing. Charmingly we were met with umbrellas at the island resort's small jetty, and soon found ourselves around a roaring fire, drink in hand, and chatting to the manager about how the land for the resort had been acquired. Unlike some of the busier resorts close to the northern section of the lake, all you can hear on the island is the sound of the forest wildlife, in particular the great variety of birds that nest here.

Lake Buyonyi has a good variety of unique accommodation options, some on private islands and some closer together in a more vibrant and interesting community of the NW shore. Many different activities can be organised or you can just relax by the swimming pool or on your private balcony looking out on this magical lake. Although many people do not stay at Arcadia Resort, they do drive up for a drink or lunch there, as the elevated views from this property of the lake and its many islands are almost 3D and slightly surreal to your eyes. The fact that Lake Buyonyi is also located at 1800m makes the climate very pleasant when arriving from low lying parks such as Queen Elizabeth or Lake Mburo.

Our African odyssey was drawing to a close, and despite my thoughts drifting to home and a reunion with the three ‘ladies’ in my life, I was a little sad that the great adventure Marcel, Martin and I had embarked on more than 2 weeks before, was coming to an end. Our final destination was Lake Mburo and since camping had very much been a highlight of this trip, what better place to end it than the simple UWA campsite at Lake Mburo. With our camp set up before darkness fell, there was even time for an evening drive inside the park before dinner, where we were lucky enough to spot Genet, Bush Baby and Elephant. The simple stilted restaurant located next to the lake provided a wonderful meal to end our last night in the bush, and our thoughts turned towards our final safari the following morning before the drive back to Kampala.

Last time I visited Mburo in 2005 I had hoped to see the magnificent Eland, in a park that was famous for its sheer variety of antelope species. Despite the exciting development of Lions returning to the park recently, Eland were still my main target and what better way to see them than on foot in the only savannah park in Uganda that permits walking safaris (horse safaris are also an option)! Our guide duly informed of our intention, and a 15 minute drive and drop off later, we strode off into the bush. Remarkably the very first animals we saw were a herd of Eland, about 30 in number, and I was amazed at how close they allowed us to get. The walk was wonderful and as well as a heart stopping moment when a male buffalo popped its head out of a nearby bush, we enjoyed close sightings of Zebra, Topi and Impala.

To conclude, I can honestly say that Uganda, in particular, has matured as a wildlife destination, and is a beautiful and rewarding country to visit. It has that intoxicating combination of wildlife, friendly people, spectacular scenery, and the absence of crowds, which makes it a wildlife destination that I know many of our clients will love. With the new very competitive pricing for our Gorilla Trails shown on the page below; what’s stopping you?

Wildlife tour of Uganda including Queen Elizabeth, Ishasha, Bwindi, Lake Buyonyi and Lake Mburo (7 days)

For people who love camping and have an adventurous sprit!!

monkey

Day 1: early morning transfer to Mweya UWA Campsite at Queen Elizabeth National Park (a journey of approximately 7 hours). You will quickly set up a simple camp close to Mweya Lodge and then head off in your own vehicle for a safari inside the park. You have the option to cook yourselves, eat at the famous hotel or walk to a nearby hostel that serves great food at a good price. To have the chance to hear the roar of Lions coming across the water, makes this one of the great camping experiences in Uganda.

Day 2: early morning jeep safari in Queen Elizabeth NP. In the afternoon you will drive south to Ishasha (famous for tree-climbing Lions; so check out every large Fig tree you see!!). Overnight at ‘Ishasha Wilderness Camp’

Day 3: after breakfast you will be driven to the ‘Buhoma Community Camp’ at Bwindi (a journey of approximately 3 hours). Afternoon free to explore the surrounding forest and nearby communities

Day 4: after an early breakfast you will be transferred to the park headquarters to commence your Gorilla Trekking.

Day 5: after breakfast you will drive to beautiful Lake Buyonyi (a journey of approximately 3-4 hours) where you will check into peaceful ‘Kalebas Lodge’ (permanent tent). Rest of the day free to explore this beautiful lake, with opportunities to paddle a dug out, swim or drive up to Arcadia Cottages to enjoy the incredible view of the Lake and its Myriad Islands.

Day 6: after breakfast you will drive for about 6- 7 hours to reach a beautiful ‘UWA lake side campsite’ in Lake Mburo with a nearby simple stilted restaurant. In the late afternoon you will be taken for a game drive around the park.

Day 7: morning drive inside Lake Mburo National Park. Later you will be driven back to Kampala to your home accommodation.

Cost per adult: £1975 (based on a single traveller), £1310 (based on two people travelling and sharing one room/tent) and £995 (based on four people travelling and sharing two rooms/tents).

Includes your own 4 wheel drive safari vehicle and driver, accommodation, meals as described under accommodation, all activities and NP entrance fees (including 1 Gorilla Permit per person) as detailed. Costs do not include international flights.

Wildlife tour of Uganda including Queen Elizabeth, Bwindi, Nkuringo and Lake Mburo (7 days)

For people who love to walk and enjoy magnificent views of Volcanoes!!

Day 1: early morning transfer to ‘Queen Elizabeth Bush Camp’ at Queen Elizabeth National Park (a journey of approximately 7 hours). Afternoon game drive

Day 2: early morning jeep safari in Queen Elizabeth NP. This afternoon you will be taken for a cruise on the Kazinga Channel to experience the spectacle of the highest concentration of hippo in the world

Day 3: after breakfast you will be driven to the ‘Buhoma Community Camp’ at Bwindi (a journey of approximately 5-6 hours). Afternoon free to explore the surrounding forest and nearby communities

Day 4: after breakfast you will leave your driver and car (who will drive around to Nukuringo) and walk for 5-7 hours with a guide through Bwindi Forest to ‘Nukuringo Gorilla
Campground’ (cottage with ensuite) for your overnight accommodation. This walk is private and can be tailored to suit fitness levels. I did this walk in October this year and found it great preparation for the trekking the following day.

Day 5: early morning start for your gorilla trek to the Nkuringo Group; it is possible to walk down to the booking office from your accommodation and have your pre-trekking briefing. The Nkuringo group is more often found on the edges of plantations rather than deep in the forest, which makes the trekking easier and photography opportunities more open

Day 6: after breakfast you will drive for about 6- 7 hours to reach the ‘Mihingo Lodge’ at Lake Mburo. In the late afternoon you will be taken for a game drive around the park

Day 7: morning drive inside Lake Mburo National Park. Later you will be driven back to Kampala to your home accommodation.

Cost per adult: £2590 (based on a single traveller), £1670 (based on two people travelling and sharing one room) and £1360 (based on four people travelling and sharing two rooms).

Includes your own 4 wheel drive safari vehicle and driver, accommodation, meals as described under accommodation, all activities and NP entrance fees (including 1 Gorilla Permit per person) as detailed. Costs do not include international flights.

Wildlife tour of Uganda including Fort Portal, Queen Elizabeth, Bwindi and Lake Mburo (7 days)
For people who love to treat themselves to a little luxury; you deserve it!!

Day 1: early morning transfer for the long drive to Fort Portal where you will overnight at the spectacular ‘Kyaninga Lodge’. Without a doubt one of the most spectacular lodges in Africa and a chance to visit before it becomes too famous to book – I speak from personal experience after visiting this October; incredible, believe me!!

Day 2: morning free to relax and enjoy the spectacular location above a crater lake before driving on to ‘Kyambura Game Lodge’ (stunningly situated high on a ridge with a view of a watering hole below) at Queen Elizabeth National Park (a journey of approximately 4 hours). In the afternoon you will take a safari near the Mweya Peninsula with a focus on Elephant, Lion and the rare Leopard.

Day 3: early morning jeep safari in Queen Elizabeth NP. This afternoon you will be taken for a cruise on the Kazinga Channel to experience the spectacle of the highest concentration of hippo in the world. Overnight again at Kyambura

Day 4: after breakfast you will be driven to the ‘Engagi lodge’ at Bwindi (a journey of approximately 3 hours). Afternoon free to explore the surrounding forest and nearby communities

Day 5: after an early breakfast you will be transferred to the park headquarters to commence your Gorilla Trekking..

Day 6: after breakfast you will drive for about 6- 7 hours to reach the ‘Mihingo Lodge’ at Lake Mburo. In the late afternoon you will be taken for a game drive around the park

Day 7: morning drive inside Lake Mburo National Park. Later you will be driven back to Kampala to your home accommodation.

Cost per adult: £2990 (based on a single traveller), £2010 (based on two people travelling and sharing one room) and £1700 (based on four people travelling and sharing two rooms).

Includes your own 4 wheel drive safari vehicle and driver, accommodation, meals as described under accommodation, all activities and NP entrance fees (including 1 Gorilla Permit per person) as detailed. Costs do not include international flights.

Accommodation

Mweya UWA campsite, Queen Elizabeth, although the large flat area behind Mweya Lodge (not owned by them!) may not look promising at first sight, this is a campsite that comes ALIVE at night and provides you with an ideal position to explore some of the best wildlife hotspots within Queen Elizabeth NP. Both the famous Leopard Loop and the boat trip on the channel are just short drives away and Mweya Hotel and a nearby good quality Hostel, provide equally good places to take you even meal or breakfast. There are recently improved toilet and simple shower facilities and to hear the Lions and Hippo’s at night is truly memorable.

Queen Elizabeth Bush Camp, with our background as conservationists and biologists we want to work with local companies that think about their footprint when they build a lodge; especially in wilderness areas, and ‘Nature Lodges’; who now have several small scale lodges around Uganda are definitely subtle and thoughtful with all their projects. The end result is very comfortable African style tents built under a delightful thatched roof, allowing for ensuite bathrooms and a privacy that is appealing to those wanting to hear the wilderness, rather than their neighbours. A lovely central lodge within easy walking distance provides good meals and drinks to refresh you after a dusty safari. All meals included.

Kyambura Game Lodge, Queen Elizabeth, if you though Mweya Lodge was the high of luxury and the place to be seen when visiting Queen Elizabeth – forget it – there is a new lodge in town – and its supreme location of a beautiful cool escarpment high above the park makes it extra special. The accommodation itself was the best I saw during my visit in October 2010. The beautiful grass thatched cottages made to a local design have been constructed with great care and attention to detail. The cottage are spacious, tastefully decorated and because there is a good distance between each one, the view from your private balcony really is undisturbed; apart from the odd Elephant Call who you can view on the plains below; really special!! All meals included.

Savannah Resort, Ishasha, a mid-range lodge located in the ideal location for seeing the tree-climbing lions of Ishasha. Well designed individual tall brick built cottages with ensuite bathrooms, maximise the cooling effect in what can be a very warm climate. A network of narrow paths takes you through extensive gardens to the main reception, where friendly staff will serve you in the large open plan dining area. All meals included.

Bwindi Community Rest Camp, Bwindi, set up in 1993 by the local community to provide accommodation to visitors that would see funds put back into community/village projects. It is important to point out that this is a simple property but it is well maintained, clean and has a friendly ambiance that attracts a variety of travellers. Accommodation consists of simple twin-bedded tents and bandas with ensuite bathrooms located within the park entrance. The views from the large dining area is one of the best in Bwindi and better than many of the more upmarket lodges. All meals included.

Engagi Lodge, a new lodge with one of the best positions in Bwindi to enjoy the view of the magnificent primary forest. There are other lodges that enjoy a similar view, but Engagi has reached a new level of comfort, design and privacy without having to charge the earth to stay there. The eight beautiful cottages with spacious wooden balconies have been thoughtfully built into the hillside to maximise views and privacy. It does involve walking uphill quite a lot, but your ensuite accommodation and magnificent main dining lodge (built from local stone and banana fibre) make sure that it is worth your effort; you may even see one of the Gorilla Groups!!! All meals included.

Nukuringo Gorilla Campground, Nkuringo, the establishment of a new habituated Gorilla Group near the spectacularly located village of Nkuringo provided the opportunity for lodge owners to set up accommodation for trekkers – so far we have two options - the very top end ‘Clouds Lodge’ and the equally charming but much more basic NGC. The bunkhouse accommodation and tents located here with shared toilet and bathrooms facilities may be more suitable for backpackers, but the two simple wooden lodges with ensuite bathrooms provide a great option for mid-range clients. Add to that the great food served here, the stunning views (weather dependant) of the Virunga Volcanoes and the opportunity to walk to the park headquarters to start you Gorilla Trekking, and you have a very attractive package. All meals included.

Kalebas Lodge, Lake Buyonyi, another property owned by Nature Lodges and built with their customary attention to sustainability and low impact on the landscape. It has a quieter location on the same side as the more raucous Buyonyi Overland camp and close to the Jetty where you can organise boat transfers to the various islands. Comfortable mid-size tents (shared bathrooms) built under thatched stilted enclosures or simple self contained rooms are available.

Mihingo Lodge, Lake Mburo, a truly stunning property sculpted around a rocky coppice in Lake Mburo National Park. Each of the 10 luxury tents utilises a part of the terrain – whether it is a boulder for the shower tray, or a tree branch for a balcony rail. All the tents have a grass roof with a large open window only covered by a mosquito mesh and a 4MX4M veranda with spectacular views. They also have ensuite bathrooms with eco-friendly toilets and running water. All meals included.

Quoted costs are valid for bookings made during the next two months. Quoted costs do not include international flights; being ATOL bonded we are able to provide quotes including flights from the UK if required.

We are a member of the Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO www.aito.co.uk). Every AITO holiday is backed not only by AITO's Quality Charter but also by full financial protection (AITO 100% protection). We also hold a Small Business Air Travel Organisers' Licence (ATOL – no: 10129) monitored by the Civil Aviation Authority.

In accordance with "The Package Travel, Package Holidays and Package Tours Regulations 1992" all passengers booking with Wildlife Trails Ltd are fully protected for the initial deposit and subsequently the balance of all monies paid to us, including repatriation if required, arising from cancellation or curtailment of your travel arrangements due to the insolvency of Wildlife Trails Ltd. This Insurance has been arranged by International Passenger Protection Limited and underwritten by Insurers who are members of the Association of British Insurers & Lloyds Syndicates (for further information please visit www.ipplondon.co.uk.

Please don’t hesitate to get in touch with us at Wildlife Trails to discuss any modifications to your itinerary or for further information and advice.

Best Wishes

Allan, Kirsty and all at Wildlife Trails

Wildlife Trails. Dale Cottage, Calderbridge, Cumbria, United Kingdom, CA20 1DN

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