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Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve

Approximately 220 miles east of Kathmandu is Kosi Tappu, a protected flood plain area on the border with the Indian state of Bihar. In 1958 construction started of the huge Kosi Barrage to minimise the destructive annual flooding around the Sapta Kosi, one of the Ganges largest tributaries. The numerous irrigation channels allowed a gain in arable land, with a resultant influx of people to farm rice, corn, millet, sugar cane and fish.

Kosi Tappu became a Wildlife Reserve in 1976 and now covers 175sq.km, at an altitude of less than 240m. The river is over 3km wide in places and because of its sandy bed it is constantly changing course and forming new sandy islets. Within the reserve and nearby forests an impressive 462 bird species have been listed, 130 of these are resident. The area is said to attract almost every South Asian wader and wetland species.
 

The main migratory season is from November to February, with visitors from pied harriers to Siberian ruby throat and chestnut eared Buntings to ruddy shelduck. Between February and April summer migrants arrive and many residents are nesting and rearing young in the grassland, sandy banks and marshy areas. Specialities include the spot-billed pelican, black necked stork, cinnamon bittern, swamp francolin, great thick knee and Indian courser.

Although Kosi Tappu is very much a destination for serious avian enthusiasts it is home to some interesting mammals. It is the last park in Nepal with a population of wild buffalo; the forest department take strong action to try to prevent interbreeding with the domestic ‘strays’. On the embankments or from the river you can also observe hog deer, mongoose, monitor lizards, mugger and gharial crocodiles. Close to the barrage itself a school of Gangetic dolphins might be spotted. More elusive residents are fishing, jungle and toddy cats in addition to leopard, favouring darkness they are unlikely to be seen.

The easiest way to see a large number of the species is to walk with a guide on the embankments between paddyfields and fish ponds and alongside the river. Drifting slowly by river raft provides excellent photographic opportunities for capturing birds in flight, diving, nesting or simply gathered in numbers on the islets. A visit to the Dharan forest at the foot of the Mahabarat range offers the chance of some additional species, including spot winged starling, silver backed needle tail and blue bearded bee-eater.

There are just two tented camps on the edge of the reserve, although open year round being under canvas between April and September will affect your comfort. It is worth noting that the low altitude and abundance of water results in more biting insects than elsewhere in the country, particularly in the warmer months. The best way to reach Kosi Tappu is by air to Biratnagar, followed by a two hour drive to the reserve.

 

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