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By 2002 the field scientist Dr
RS Chundawat was recording data from a growing tiger population,
his tracking of radio-collared tigers inside the park gave tiger
biologists some invaluable information on the resident tigers and
put this park on the map worldwide. Despite the international
attention Panna’s tigers have continued to suffer from habitat
encroachment and poaching. Park authorities intent on discrediting
any scientific work have hardly helped efforts that might
otherwise give us a 'true' picture of the state of the park.
Sadly, once again the park is far removed from the park on the up
of 2-3 years ago, and an honest assessment is that due to
poaching, and Dr Chundawat’s project being ended, the park is not
a great location to see tigers. But of course there is a good
diversity of other wildlife found here, a beautiful wide river and
dense forest, and with far fewer visitors than the often crowded
Bandhavgarh the park still has plenty to offer to wildlife
enthusiasts.
The park is deeply forested with dry deciduous varieties such as
teak, acacia and sal. The dense cover provides excellent habitat
for nilgai, chinkara, sambar and chitel as well as more elusive
species such as the sloth bear, wolf, tiger, leopard and lesser
cats. The river is home to both of India's crocodiles the marsh
mugger and the fish eating Gharial, for which there is a separate
breeding sanctuary.
Unlike ‘nearby’ Bandhavgarh, this park attracts an excellent
variety of resident and migratory bird species, from storks and
cranes to eagles and vultures. Amongst the 300 or so species,
Panna is particularly noted for the high density of Paradise Fly
Catchers and a good number of water birds.
Morning jeep safaris are longer than the afternoon drives, and
there is the option to transfer to elephant back if a tiger has
been sighted off-track. Even without a tiger sighting it is worth
taking a short safari by elephant to travel deeper under the
canopy and in to the rocky ravines. Depending on season and
availability it may also be possible to take a boat or to go on
foot, only if accompanied by an armed guard.
The park is open from 1st October to the end of June and is
approximately 30km from Khajuraho. Combining wildlife safaris with
a visit to the incredible temples of Khajuraho with their erotic
carvings is a unique experience. There is a simple lodge within
the forest close to the park boundary; alternatively the park is
close enough to be visited from Khajuraho itself. The park can be
reached by air from Delhi to Khajuraho, or by rail from Agra to
Jhansi (followed by a four hour drive). It is possible to travel
on from Panna by road to Bandhavgarh, however this route is only
for the more adventurous, and being in a particularly poor state
of repair the uncomfortable journey can take up to seven hours. |
